Gabarrou Patrick

Born on 19 July 1951 in Évreux, Patrick Gabarrou, nicknamed “Le Gab”, is one of the most iconic figures in modern mountaineering and a high-altitude mountain guide. After graduating in philosophy from the Sorbonne in 1973, Gabarrou transposed his intellectual research into the vertical environment, considering the mountains not only as a place for sport, but also as a place of spiritual pilgrimage and contemplation.

A pioneer of modern ice and mixed climbing, Gabarrou has made over 300 first ascents around the world, with an exceptional concentration in the Mont Blanc massif. Among his most famous routes are the Directissime on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses (1986) and the legendary Divine Providence on the Grand Pilier d’Angle (1984), considered a benchmark of difficulty in the Alps. His love for the Matterhorn has resulted in the opening of several routes, culminating in 2015 with the completion of Padre Pio, Une Echelle Vers le Ciel on the south face, achieved at the age of 65.

A deeply religious man, Gabarrou experiences mountaineering as an act of faith and friendship, describing mountains as “cathedrals of light” and prioritising the beauty of the line over pure competition. His ethical commitment led him to chair the NGO Mountain Wilderness (2006-2010), fighting for the protection of mountain areas.

His career has been marked by extraordinary longevity: in 2024, at the age of 73, he opened what he announced would be his last new route on Mont Blanc, Marie, porte du ciel, and celebrated the 50th anniversary of his Gabarrou-Albinoni route. In 2013, he was awarded the Piolet d’Or for his career.